Bringing a car along with you on an RV trip is a great way to increase mobility. That way, you can easily navigate towns and cities while leaving the RV safely parked elsewhere. There are 3 different ways to tow a car behind an RV, each with some pros and cons.
What Are the Methods for Towing a Car Behind an RV?
How does towing a car behind an RV work? It depends on the method you use. The best method for you will depend on your towed car (aka a “dinghy” or a “toad”), plus a couple of other factors. The three methods are:
Flat Towing (Four Wheels Down)
- Description: This method involves towing your car with all four wheels on the ground, using a tow bar. It’s akin to a boat pulling a dinghy, hence the nickname.
- Suitable for: Vehicles that are manufacturer-approved for flat towing. Often includes many manual transmission cars and some automatic transmission vehicles with specific features.
Tow Dollies (Two Wheels Up)
- Description: Tow dollies elevate the front wheels of your car off the ground while the rear wheels roll on the road. It’s a hybrid towing solution that offers a balance between ease of setup and vehicle compatibility.
- Suitable for: Mostly front-wheel-drive vehicles that aren’t fit for flat towing. Some rear-wheel-drive cars may require additional modifications.
Trailers (Four Wheels Off)
- Description: This method involves loading your car onto a trailer that carries all four wheels off the ground. It’s the most comprehensive solution, offering protection and compatibility across the board.
- Suitable for: Almost any vehicle, including those that cannot be flat towed or placed on a tow dolly, particularly AWD, electric, and 4WD vehicles.
Each towing method has its advantages and considerations, from the ease of setup and use to compatibility and additional equipment requirements. When selecting a method, consider your vehicle’s specifications, your RV’s towing capacity, and how frequently you plan to tow. For more detailed information on each towing method, continue reading below.
Method 1: Flat Towing (Four Down or Dinghy Towing)
Flat towing, known as “four down” or “dinghy towing,” involves connecting your car to the RV with a tow bar, allowing all four wheels of the car to roll on the road. This method is visually reminiscent of a boat towing a dinghy, offering simplicity and efficiency in design.
Flat towing is praised for its convenience and minimal equipment requirements. It shines in its ease of connection and disconnection, promoting a straightforward setup process. However, not every vehicle is equipped to be towed this way due to specific transmission and drivetrain configurations.
Understanding Vehicle Compatibility for Flat Towing
The suitability for flat towing primarily includes vehicles with manual transmissions and rear-wheel drive or those with four-wheel drive coupled with a manual transfer case that can shift into neutral. However, it’s important to note that this isn’t the determining factor for flat towing compatibility. Some makes and models fit into the mentioned categories yet the manual states that the vehicle is not suitable for flat towing.
Popular models known for their flat towing compatibility include the Jeep Wrangler and Grand Cherokee, alongside the Ford F-150, Chevrolet Colorado, GMC Canyon, Ram 1500, and Dodge Durango. Compact vehicles like the Chevrolet Spark, Ford Focus, and the Mini Cooper also fit into this category.
It’s crucial to recognize that compatibility can vary by model year. For instance, the Honda CR-V was a favored option for flat towing until the 2015 model year introduced a CVT transmission, rendering newer models unsuitable. Therefore, consulting your vehicle’s owner’s manual is the most reliable way to determine if flat towing is an option.
Preparing Your Vehicle for Flat Towing
To adapt vehicles not initially designed for flat towing, aftermarket modifications such as driveshaft decouplers and transmission lubrication pumps can be installed. These modifications, while effective, require significant investment and expertise for installation and maintenance, carrying a risk of damage if improperly managed.
Essential Tips for Safe Flat Towing
Embarking on an RV adventure with your car in tow not only boosts your mobility but also requires a careful approach to ensure both you and your vehicle remain safe on the road. Here are key practices for a successful and secure flat towing experience:
- Reference Your Owner’s Manual: It’s essential to consult your vehicle’s owner’s manual before towing. This resource outlines critical procedures like setting the transmission mode, managing fuses, and handling switches, ensuring you avoid potential damage to your vehicle.
- Adhere to Speed Limits: Abiding by the manufacturer’s recommended speed limits for towing is crucial. Additionally, periodically running the engine during stops ensures the proper lubrication of your vehicle’s transmission, maintaining its good condition.
- Maintain Steering Function: Keeping the electronics or accessories powered helps prevent the steering from locking, allowing you to maintain control over the towed vehicle.
- Incorporate Auxiliary Brakes: Adding auxiliary brakes that synchronize with your RV’s braking system is not just a safety measure—it’s legally required. This setup ensures that your towed vehicle can safely stop alongside the RV, minimizing the risk of accidents.
While these guidelines serve as a foundation for flat towing your vehicle safely, they’re part of a larger set of considerations, including adhering to state laws and understanding the specific requirements of your vehicle, tow bar, and RV. Always ensure compliance with local towing laws and regulations, which can vary from one area to another. By prioritizing safety, preparation, and legal compliance, flat towing can be a seamless addition to your RV adventures, opening up new possibilities for exploration and enjoyment.
Pros and Cons of Flat Towing
Pros:
- Ease of Use: Setting up and detaching is uncomplicated, making it a user-friendly option.
- Lightweight Solution: Without the need for a trailer, it’s a lighter alternative that allows for towing additional weight.
- Uniform Wear: Promotes even wear on the vehicle’s tires compared to other methods.
Cons:
- Complex Requirements: Selecting an incompatible vehicle or improper setup can lead to damage or life-threatening issues.
- Limited Vehicle Compatibility: Many automatic vehicles require modifications to be towed flat.
- Potential for Modification Risks: Aftermarket modifications can be costly and might affect the vehicle’s warranty or integrity.
- Reversing Limitations: It’s not possible to reverse the RV without first detaching the towed vehicle.
By considering these factors and preparing accordingly, you can ensure a safe and efficient towing experience.
Method 2: Tow Dollies
Tow dollies are a versatile and efficient method for transporting your car behind an RV. They are a practical middle ground between flat towing and using full-size trailers. These devices support your car’s front wheels off the ground while the rear wheels roll along the road, making them particularly suitable for front-wheel-drive vehicles.
Enhancing Your Towing Experience with Tow Dollies
Pros:
- Front-Wheel Drive Compatibility: Ideal for cars with front-wheel drive, tow dollies elevate the front tires, preventing mileage accumulation and reducing wear.
- User-Friendly: The setup process is straightforward—drive the car onto the dolly, secure it with chains and straps, and you’re ready to go, simplifying the preparation for your journey.
- Cost-Efficient: Offering a budget-friendly alternative to full-size trailers, tow dollies provide a cost-effective solution without sacrificing the security of your vehicle.
Cons:
- Uneven Wear: A notable drawback is the uneven tire wear, as the rear tires remain in contact with the road, leading to disproportionate wear patterns.
- Rear-Wheel Drive Adjustments: Vehicles with rear-wheel drive may require modifications to be dolly-towed, adding complexity and potential costs to the preparation process.
- Reversing Challenges: Similar to flat towing, reversing with a tow dolly attached is not feasible. Detachment is necessary for maneuvering in reverse, adding a step to your towing routine.
Practical Considerations for Tow Dolly Use
To optimize your tow dolly experience, consider the following additional tips:
- Vehicle Suitability Check: Not all vehicles are created equal when it comes to tow dolly compatibility. Consult your vehicle’s owner’s manual or contact the manufacturer to ensure your car is a fit.
- Towing Laws and Regulations: Familiarize yourself with towing laws in your travel destinations. Requirements can vary significantly from one region to another, particularly concerning additional brake lights or signaling devices.
- Maintenance and Inspection: Regularly inspect your tow dolly for wear and tear, focusing on tire condition, straps, and chains. Proper maintenance ensures safety and extends the life of your towing equipment.
Method 3: Car Haulers
Rounding off our trio of towing solutions is the full-size flatbed trailer, more commonly known as the car hauler. Characterized by its substantial, flat platform and typically sporting four wheels, the car hauler allows your vehicle to take a lift with all four wheels securely off the ground.
Despite being on the heftier side both in size and price tag, car haulers boast several unparalleled advantages. They stand out as the prime choice for towing cars behind an RV, especially for electric cars or those vehicles endowed with all-wheel or four-wheel drive. Yet, as with any method, it brings its own set of considerations to the table.
Pros:
- Universally Compatible: The car hauler’s ability to accommodate nearly any type of vehicle makes it a versatile option. Wondering about the best way to tow your automatic vehicle? Look no further. With the car’s wheels elevated from the pavement, the risk of in-transit damage drops to nil.
- Minimal Wear and Tear: For those concerned about preserving their car’s condition, car haulers offer peace of mind. Free from the road’s grasp, your vehicle avoids unnecessary wear and avoids the need for mechanical alterations, making it the gentlest way to transport your vehicle.
- Reversibility: Unlike its counterparts—the tow bar and tow dolly—a car hauler can be reversed. Though not the simplest of tasks, the ability to back up with your trailer in tow is a significant plus, offering flexibility that other methods can’t match.
Cons:
- Cost Considerations: The major drawback of opting for a car hauler is its cost. While a tow bar might set you back around $2,000 and a tow dolly approximately $4,500, car haulers scale up to $10,000 for an open model and even $20,000 for an enclosed variant. This makes it a more substantial investment by comparison.
- Storage and Mobility: In addition to the financial outlay, car haulers demand additional considerations for storage and parking. Their robust build and size mean you’ll need ample space at your RV site. Additionally, the added bulk translates to decreased gas mileage and a dip in your RV’s overall towing capacity.
Overall, car haulers emerge as a robust, albeit pricier, solution to bringing your car along for the RV adventure. They offer unmatched vehicle protection and compatibility at the expense of higher costs and logistical considerations.
With so Many Ways to Tow a Car Behind an RV, There’s Sure to be One That’s Right for You!
There are plenty of options for towing a car with a motorhome. Each one has its pros and cons, and some are better for certain kinds of cars than others.
- Have a manual rear-wheel-drive car and want to easily attach and detach your car? Flat towing is a great option. With all four wheels on the ground, you can easily drive away without dealing with a trailer.
- Have a front-wheel drive car (most common)? A tow dolly is a great, fairly simple option. Plus, you don’t have to make any adjustments or additions to your vehicle to use a tow dolly.
- Have a more expensive, luxury car or just want to keep it protected? A car hauler is your best investment. Maybe your transmission or drivetrain isn’t compatible with other options, or you just don’t want extra wear on your car. Either way, the safety and security of a car hauler is hard to beat.
Whatever method you use, you’ll be glad you brought your tow car along for the ride. Exploring and finding your next adventure just got a little easier!
And stay out of the left lane when you are not passing another vehicle!
Pros of a Car Hauler
One of the best things about car haulers: they can’t be used to tow pretty much any vehicle.
They can’t?
Hey Jerry, thanks for catching that typo.
Can tow a rear wheel drive car with a tow dolly simply by backing up onto the dolly
Great tip!
I’ve never seen a Dingy-tow setup for under $4-5000. Connectons, aux. brakes, stabilizers, etc. OK, Or, a tow-strap and someone in the towed vehicle’s driver’s seat.
Car haulers really only make sense if you have a diesel pusher. Class C & A’s don’t have capacity to safely handle the tongue weight. I’m not saying it can’t be done, it just can’t be done safely. I worked in a hitch shop over 47 years.
You need to change the article title to “Tow your car behind your motorhome.” It isn’t happening behind a fifth wheel or a travel trailer.
I believe you need a breaking system with two bar also. Most dollies have them built in.
Hitches usually are very easy to connect and disconnect, except if your not on level ground or straight behind the Motorhome. In those cases the pins are very difficult to remove if not impossible
A few related thoughts…
Of course, a serious consideration is the type of RV doing the towing. Generally, a diesel engine RV is able to tow more weight than a gas engine RV. This means the weight of the toad may restrict the vehicle of choice.
Quite often, the combined weight of a toad and towing device of choice will influence the decision whether to flat tow, dolly tow, or trailer tow. Flat towing probably has the least impact on towable weight and handling because it really affects the GWVR relative to the “pulling” capacity of the hitch and not the downward tongue weight of the hitch on the vehicle. Thus, a flat tow may only have a 50# tongue weight as opposed to a trailer which may have a 400# tongue weight (a dolly’s tongue weight would be in between). That difference could also affect the RV’s handling characteristics, for instance, causing tail wagging.
For tow dollies and trailers, the hitch’s towing capacity and/or tongue weight capacity also could be a determining factor in the choice of a toad. The extra tongue weight will add to and impact the RV’s rear axle weight capacity. The RV’s curb weight is likewise impacted. In any case, the GVWR should not be exceeded. This is often a consideration especially for gas RVs where the GVWR less the curb weight usually leaves little room for all of the other “stuff” needed for a trip; diesel RVs usually have more “stuff” capacity.
Last I knew you could buy a tow bar for around $100, a tow dolly for around $750 to $1000 or so, and a car trailer, around $2,000 to $5,000. Of course those prices are in civilization, not places like California. Personally, I would prefer a small rack on the back of my camper, and carry a motor scooter to get around. However, if I wanted a vehicle, I would opt for a trailer, because among other advantages, you can use a trailer for a variety of uses.
Hands down flat towing is the easiest method, connect/disconnect in minutes. Used a tow dolly for two years. It was nice to have a vehicle to explore with but having to hook up the dolly and hook up the car to the dolly was no fun. I would get all sweating and dirty man handling the dolly and getting underneath the car to hook/unhook the safety chains. Best feature of the tow dolly was being able to tow most any front wheel drive vehicle with no modifications (base plate) to the car.
Flat tow actual cost for Honda Fit
Blue Ox Ascent towbar $945
Blue Ox Baseplate $532
Used Brake Buddy $371
Brake Wiring Kit $77
Total $1925
About 5 hours work removing/installing front fascia on Fit, installing baseplate, and wiring for lights and Brake buddy.
Thanks for sharing!
Please check prices for tow dollies. Just as your estimate for flat towing was way low, your estimate for the cost of a dolly was very high. There are excellent tow dollies commercially available for under $2,000. And, while a flatbed tandem might cost as much as you quote, the average is well below. I don’t know where you’ve shopped for these items, but here in middle America we’re generally more fair with folks.
Thanks for the comment, Peter. I guess the prices really depend where you’re located geographically and what store you’re looking at. These are really ballpark figures and not meant to be completely accurate for all of our readers which are all over the US and Canada.
There are a lot of factors to consider. With dinghy towing, the cost of the base plate and installation is significant, if there is even one made for your car. They will cost more than any tow bar. You basically have to buy a car that you wouldn’t otherwise purchase just because it can be towed 4 wheels down! Then you add in your braking system. The portable ones are bulky and if you need to move the vehicle, you have to remove it. The braking system needs a substantial 12V power supply. On long trips, it will deplete your car battery. Running an auxiliary power line from your motorhome is another hassle, another thing to short out or fail. We used a 12V deep cycle battery sitting on the floor in front of the passenger seat, but they’re heavy, contain acid and need to be recharged at the end of each day’s towing. When looking through each year’s list of vehicles capable of being towed that way, each year fewer vehicles are listed.
The least expensive option is with a tow dolly. It has electric brakes which require a controller mounted near the motorhome’s driver. But getting the car onto the dolly can be a major hassle. The tires slip on the ramps as you drive up. You need to make sure you don’t drive over the end of the dolly, which is a disaster and is easy to do. If the tow vehicle’s ground clearance is too low, you will damage it when it hits the ramp. You need to make sure that the car you are towing doesn’t exceed the dolly’s weight limit, which is often up to 4500 pounds. Getting the tow straps properly installed onto the tires the very first time is a nightmare. Once you’ve gotten past that, you have to stop after a mile of towing to re-tighten them and periodically afterword. Some cars cannot be towed except on a flatbed trailer. Tesla vehicles cannot be towed on a dolly. Chevy Bolt EVs can but as small as they are, they are heavy and at that 4500 pound weight limit. Generally, most front wheel drive vehicles can be dolly-towed.
The best reason to tow a care behind your motorhome is that it can be a real life-saver, especially if you travel with pets. There are so many things that can go wrong in an RV, potentially stranding you on the road. Your tow car may be the only way for your to get home or get help. Even if you don’t anticipate using your tow vehicle along the way or at your destination, your tow vehicle is a valuable backup when things don’t go as planned. Man plans, …
I’m glad to see the comments caught some of the points that were overlooked.
An open car hauler can be had, new, for the price of a dolly.
This is a great article that Should be shared to a lot of folks.
Like everything else in the world of RVing the comments and suggestions are all over the place.
One thing that wasn’t discussed, was the shielding of the the vehicle being towed from rock debris from the hauling RV. Early on I added a rear wheel debris flap that hangs down the entire width on the motorhome.
looks cool, but I did it out of courtesy to vehicles following me (drafting in some cases) as to not damage their car. As a habit, I stay obnoxiously distant from 18 wheel trucks for the same reason.
I inherited a family Jeep CJ-7 for my first attempt at towing four wheels down. As with most inexperienced RV’ers, I went cheap when I found out the cost of a Blue Ox tow bar plus install. A friend of mine, in Los Angeles, suggested a $50 tow bar at Harbor Freight (don’t
laugh). It actually worked after some adjustments and volumes of prayers.
Paint matched with the RV, so what could possible go wrong ? Additionally, 40 years ago my dad let me back our 20 ft boat on a trailer in to driveway on a a regular basis. with that experience I felt I was already in the “pro” category of towing.
Admittingly, there were a few minor glitches on my trip back to Texas. Not pointing fingers, but after passing Quadalupe Peak about halfway returning home to Houston, my very young son, pointed to the rear view camera on the dash an sarcastically commented on the 10 foot sparks coming from rear tires on the Jeep.
Oh great, the dreaded flat tire, on the way home from the always expensive RV Trip.
Pulled over to discover a 50 yard trail of oil/hydraulic fluid, including a nasty scratch in the asphalt. Yep, not only was the wheel flat…. but the wheel was missing, as well as the axle that disconnected from the universal gear in the rear end.
As a good RV person knows, the next thing you always do is try to find a working flash lite to locate the missing parts. To my dismay, after two days, the wheel and axle flew away as I never found any part of my mis fortune. The not so good news was, it was New Years Eve and we were in the middle of no where. Fortunately, our generator was in good order so the 4 hour wait for a tow truck to move the Jeep kept us comfortable eating peanut butter sandwiches until it arrived. My wife did mention something about leaning over at 30 degrees on the side of the road eating.. possibly a comment about divorce and of course the never ending statement “Sell the d… RV” !! Naturally, as a good RV husband, I couldn’t hear that last statement over the purr of the ONAN Generator…:)
Sorry, got a little of track, but I would love to see a video of someone trying to repair/replace motorhome ceiling panels.
One of biggest negatives on tow dolly was omitted. You will always need a 2nd person to act as a ground guide, very little room for error when pulling a vehicle on a dolly. That’s also another plus for flat towing, only 1 person required.
Good point. Thanks for sharing, Greg.
I have an issue with the statement that most vehicles with automatic transmission need modifications to tow. Wrong. All Jeeps with the Quadratrac I or II are automatic trannies and are made towable simple by starting the Jeep, putting it in neutral and holding down a small button near the shifter, for a few seconds and viola! The trans. is electronically put in neutral and you can tow all day with no restrictions as to speed and or no. of hours of towing. When ready to drive the toad, reverse the process. We are towing our 4th Jeep and it all works easily. Most larger RV dealers can do the installation of the tow package and the auxiliary brake system, required for all vehicles being towed weighing over 1500 lbs. or so with pretty much includes just about any vehicle you would consider towing.
Lots to think about. Thanks for all the information. Newbe
Buy a Jeep. We have Jeep Cherokee with a trail hawk package, which was fairly inexpensive to hook up. The Jeep is a automatic and easy to hook up for flat towing. We also have a ford fusion hybrid auto, and it was nothing but nightmares after spending $4000 for getting it hooked up for flat towing.
I use a tow dolly to take my front-wheel-drive car with us, but learned right away to get a hitch put on the car. We had a dual blow-out on the RV and had to call for repairs. Tow company had to send 2 trucks. One for the RV and one for the tow dolly. Now if it happens again, I can tow the dolly behind the car. (Less hassle and cost)
Need to update on towable vehicles. I have flat towed a Ford F-150 4WD, a Chevy Sierra 1500, and Ford Explorer 4WD, all automatics, and all within the last 24 months. There’s still lots of vehicle options from Cadillacs and Lincoln’s to Jeeps with automatics and 4WD that can be flat towed.
We definitely didn’t intend for this to be an all-inclusive list. Lots of options for towable vehicles out there.
I bought a tow bar locally for $25. I had to make a connector pin and hen I had a complete tow bar. Since then I’ve been disconnecting the drive shaft from my S10 and towing it everywhere I go. No big deal, really. I don’t look forward to unhooking the truck and reconnecting the drive shaft after driving a few hours, but I’d rather do that than spend thousands of dollars for a trailer. I didn’t know about the transmission fluid pump. I’m going to look into that.
What a great deal!
If you have a 4 wheel drive car with a transfer case that has a neutral setting you can tow it 4 down. Check the owner’s manual first though, some still require pulling a fuse. Some Jeeps also need a special wire harness to avoid the death wobble.
4×4’s with flat tow capabilities are the easiest way to bring your vehicle with you. These are a special breed of auto’s and mostly sold by JEEP. They can go into a true neutral often by a simple gear shift or the push of a button. If you look at Motorcoach’s you will see that so many are pulling JEEP products and this is the reason. Motorcoach magazine puts out an annual list of flat tows.
Tow a vehicle in reverse? I doubt it – unless you tie up the steering wheel absolutely straight. Front (steering) wheels are trailing wheels, not leading wheels. That why you can flat tow. They follow. That is also why you cannot back up.
You can flat tow a vehicle with an automatic if it has a manual 4 wheel drive. (Trans in park and trans axle in neutral.)
Surprised that you did not mention one of the main problems with a tow dolly – where do you put it once the car is off? Many RVs sites either do not allow, or have no space for, an empty tow dolly to be stored. After all – you already have your large Class A, plus your TOAD which both have to fit onto your site. There is rarely enough space to then also store a large tow dolly. Some campgrounds might have remote storage areas for trailers, but most do not.
In all our travels almost everyone tows 4 -down. Use of dollys is very rare.
Really good point, Richard! Thanks for mentioning it. That is definitely something to think about and consider.
It’s funny reading all the arguments for or against a particular method. The most common I see on the road & in campgrounds is flat towing. Our class A coach came with a tow dolly. I would have preferred to tow our minivan with it but it didn’t fit – the minivan was too wide. I was in the market for a mid-size pickup to replace my old, rusted Dakota. As soon as I saw that the Colorado/Canyon twins were flat towable, I bought one. I bought the tow bar & Brake Buddy used, everything else new & installed it all myself. Cost was less than $1500 & I sold the tow dolly for $1500. I use a trolling motor battery to power the brake buddy. It sits in a battery box behind the front seat. I put it in the truck in the spring, remove it in the fall and charge it once in a while. It’s no problem but I need to try one of the batteries we carry anyway for my wife’s electric scooter. They are small but have huge capacity.
Contrary to popular belief, you can back up a flat towed vehicle. I’ve done it several times. Not very far, maybe up to 10 feet. You could go further if someone was steering the toad. Make sure the steering wheels don’t get out of position and make sure they are pointing in the right direction before going forward.
Thanks for your comment, Mike! People can get very passionate about their different ways of doing things.
(I tow a 3200lb Jeep Wrangler behind a 13.3k lb F350 with truck camper).
Lots of great comments…..Towing another vehicle is NOT simple. The simplistic presentation in this article is misleading if you believe this is all you need to make your decision, you are headed for trouble. The large number of lengthy comments highlighting shortcomings should be a sign that there is much more necessary to understand what is required to decide how to tow and do it legally and safely.
Several issues ignored that are critical (some of which are touched on in comments);
1) ALL tow solutions require the towing vehicle to have a brake controller to actuate the brakes on the tow.
2) ALL tows need to have brakes actuated by the towing vehicle AND a breakaway system that actuates the brakes if the tow becomes disconnected. Regulations vary by state but most states require tows over ~1500-2000lbs to have one or both. Even if your state does not have this requirement, if you are traveling, you will likely be towing across state lines which makes it effectively required for every situation. Most trailers or dollies have electric brakes which can meet these requirements but flat tows do not. Flat towing requires significant expense to comply. $4k is probably a reasonable cost to set up a flat tow and if you spend less, you are missing something important. IMHO, many who flat tow, ignore (or do not understand) all requirements. The cost to add braking/breakaway devices to a flat tow can easily make using a tow dolly the most cost-effective option (if cost is the primary factor).
3) The brake controller wiring must exist from the controller in the cab, all the way to the tow connection at the rear of the towing vehicle. Brake control of a trailer requires a 6/7 pin connector that actually has the (normally blue) wire for trailer brakes. Most factory tow packages will have this wiring but aftermarket ‘trailer connector’ kits will not (unless specifically stated).
4) The towing vehicle must have an acceptable Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) to be able to bear the weight of the tow AND the equipment connecting it. This is to ensure the towing vehicle has the steering, braking, and tongue weight capability to handle a tow. Towing on a trailer greatly adds to the total weight of the tow and complicates this capability.
5) The hitch and associated adapters must have the capacity to bear the load. There are 5 classes of trailer hitches (https://www.curtmfg.com/types-trailer-hitches#HitchClasses) and just because you can connect your tow, does not mean you have the capacity to do it safely. Balls have different sizes and weight ratings. Ball adapters (the link between the hitch receiver and the ball) also have different sizes, thicknesses and similarly have differing ratings. All 3 pieces of the vehicle hitch must be rated to pull the weight of the tow.
6) To flat-tow a vehicle, the steering wheel must remain unlocked so that the front wheels can steer. This requires a key to be inserted into the ignition and turned to the ‘on’ position (yes this is also a theft threat). This activates the tow’s electrical system which will drain the battery unless a battery disconnect is installed (an additional cost). Power to operate the tow vehicle’s rear lights is provided by the towing vehicle.
7) To flat-tow or dolly tow, the tow’s rear lights are activated by the towing vehicle. Power from the towing vehicle must not be allowed to flow from the light connection into any other part of the tow’s electrical system, requiring an isolator and additional wiring to be installed (another expense).
8) Although not required, a means of monitoring the tow is practically required. Since the towing vehicle is most often larger than the tow, the tow vehicle is effectively invisible. A ‘backup camera’ may be able to be adapted to see the hitch and the tow. Monitoring tire condition on the tow is also pretty important. If the tow has a flat or blowout, it will likely not be noticed until substantial damage has occurred. An add-on TPMS using pressure sensing valve caps with a receiver in the towing vehicle cab is a likley solution.
Hi Steve, thanks again for your in-depth comment and email. Like other posts, this article does not intend to be all-inclusive or cover every situation. It is a starting off point for the reader to understand the very basics of the 3 towing options and then lead the way into further research.
An alibi comment;
Towing does not cause mileage to be accumulated on your (anything other than ancient) tow vehicle. Virtually all automobiles built in the last 25+ years have electric speedometers with a sensor somewhere near the output of the transmission. Even though most drive lines are turned while towing, when properly wired for towing, the vehicle electrical system is unpowered so no sensor reading is occurring. The only situation where a tow may experience mileage accumulation is if they are old enough to be equipped with a mechanically driven (flexible shaft) odometer.
Many good and not so good comments here. I use a tow dolly for my Nissan Versa Fwd. if it takes 20 minutes to hook up on my dolly it means I took a break. I purchased my dolly Used from U haul for less than $1000 and they threw on a spare. These are used by THOUSANDS of people a year with little or no experience
And any U-haul dealer can get replacement parts. Interesting note. No brakes. I have several thousand miles of traveling with NO Issues. PA to Florida multiple times Yes my car is very light (subcompact) but I really don’t even feel a difference when towing. If I had a heavier toad it might make a difference but I’m VERY happy with my setup. I sold an AWD Subaru to purchase the Nissan specifically for this purpose. Yes flat towing sure seems easier but the expense of all the hookups and the overall reliability of Jeep’s in general
(Also way overpriced) led me in a different direction. If $ was no object I might go that route
note to “anonymos”
sorry but you can tow a trailer behind a fiver. it is called doubles. (legal under fed DOT law)
all axles on the ground must have brakes, not to exceed the towing numbers of the truck.
pending some states must have a non commercial class A permit with a doubles endorsement.
—but i am glad most do not know or do this—
“tom”
reverse towing on a dolly can lead to weight balance problems, and steering troubles, as just that little plate with the cheap very easily broken pin in the steering column is holding the wheels in line, as the steering is designed to track going forward, not pulled in reverse.
as a note to those flat towing, most times it is just a rear output seal and/or bearing that goes out when dragging behind while in neutral. (lack of lube oil getting to these parts).
pending app there can be a work around. best bet is to remove the driveshaft from the rear axle… but NOT the trani ( possible big leak problem here).
then flat tires.
safest is a trailer, they just track best. and have two tires each side for stability. (only one point of “flex”).
dolly’s are the most unsafe. they do not always track so great. empty or loaded. (two (some more) points of flex)
—thinking full blowout—
as to costs, each way will cost a grand $$$
tow bar assembly, mounting assemble (pending your auto). breaking adapter. labor to install (welding/cutting, etc.).
dolly’s also need the braking adapters.
a good lightweight auto trailer can easily be had for less than the price of some dolly’s.
but dolly’s and trailers will just cost you more due to added taxes, and insurance.
some insurance providers will void any clame if all axles do not have working brakes, good tires and lights, etc.
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We are looking to purchase a Class C no longer than 30 ft and want to tow a 4wd Jeep. Does anyone know if that is possible and which towing method we would have to use?
In any article about towing it must be emphasized, really emphasized, that with any towing evolution involving safety chains the chains need to be rigged so they absolutely do not come in contact with the road surface. Sparks are emitted and can and do start wildfires. The recreational vehicle category, including boats, toy hauler trailers, etc. are responsible for several wildfires annually. Think safety.